Climbing Mount Toubkal: A Moroccan Adventure to 4,167m
Country: Morocco
Mountain: Mount Toubkal
Summit elevation: 4,167m
Adventure cost: £427 (guided trip with Much Better Adventures)
Group size: 14 people
Duration: Two days of hiking, including an overnight stay at the mountain refuge
Why Mount Toubkal?
After spending much of the year taking on some pretty big walking challenges, including setting the first recorded women's Fastest Known Time (FKT) on the GR5 from the Netherlands to Nice, I fancied doing something a little different.
I'd spent a lot of time walking, navigating, planning routes, organising accommodation and generally being responsible for every little detail of my adventures.
So, when the opportunity came up to head to Morocco and climb Mount Toubkal, I thought it would be a great opportunity to experience something different.
Mount Toubkal is the highest mountain in North Africa, standing at 4,167 metres (13,671 feet), and is located in Morocco's High Atlas Mountains.
I've climbed Kilimanjaro before, back in 2013, so I have some previous experience of climbing at altitude. However, it had been a while since I'd taken on a mountain of this height, and I was interested to see how I'd find it.
I booked onto a guided group adventure with Much Better Adventures, which cost £427.
And off to Morocco I went!
Getting to Manchester Airport
My journey started with a bus from Liverpool to Manchester Airport. (£4.99 with Flexibus)
The bus was incredibly hot, but it remains one of the more convenient and affordable ways of getting to the airport. With the traffic, the cost of airport drop-offs and increasingly expensive taxis, I think it's worth considering.
The bus journey takes around an hour, and once you're dropped off, it's approximately an eight-minute walk to Terminal 3.
I arrived at around 1.20pm, dropped off my bag and had made it through security by 1.40pm.
I was really impressed with how efficient everything was.
I'm definitely one of those people who likes to arrive at the airport early. I'd much rather have an hour and a half sitting around, having a drink and relaxing than be rushing around worrying about missing my flight.
You never quite know what might happen when travelling, so I always like to give myself plenty of time.
Day 1: Meeting the group and travelling into the Atlas Mountains
One of the things I was looking forward to about this trip was meeting the other people in the group.
There were 14 of us in total: seven women and seven men, aged between 20 and 45.
I was actually the oldest person in the group!
We had a real mixture of people, including students, vets, finance professionals, software engineers and chemists.
Different backgrounds, different experiences and different reasons for booking the adventure, but everyone shared an interest in the outdoors, hiking, fitness and getting outside their comfort zone.
Breakfast was included at the hotel, and this was our first opportunity to introduce ourselves and start getting to know each other.
There was fresh orange juice, yoghurt, banana bread, spreads and hard-boiled eggs. A good breakfast and a nice relaxed way to meet everyone before the adventure properly began.
We were told to meet at reception at 8.30am and were loaded into the van by 8.40am.
One of the biggest benefits of booking a guided group adventure is not having to think!
I hadn't needed to organise transport to the start of the hike, work out where we were going, plan the route or figure out what time we needed to be somewhere.
It had all been arranged.
For someone who normally takes responsibility for every single detail of an adventure, this was actually quite a novelty.
I could just sit back, relax and enjoy the experience.
There was also the option to leave luggage at the hotel, which was really useful. We could also repack our bags when we reached the next town, leaving behind anything we decided we didn't need for the mountain.
I ended up with three bags:
Hotel bag: Everything I wasn't taking into the mountains.
Daypack: Water, snacks, a jacket and an extra layer, along with my passport and money.\
Mule bag: Extra clothing, snacks, sleeping bag liner, pillow, electronics and power bank.
It was nice knowing that the mules would be carrying the heavier bags up the mountain for us.
The drive to the mountains
We had approximately a 90-minute drive to the little village where our hike would begin.
About 45 minutes into the journey, we stopped to stretch our legs and have a quick break.
Once we arrived, we were taken into a waiting room where there were chairs around a central table and a toilet at the back.
This was where we met our three guides, all called Mohammed!
We had a short briefing about the route, where we would be walking, the altitude and what to expect over the next couple of days.
There was also an opportunity to check that we had everything we needed.
If you wanted to hire hiking poles, for example, you could do that in the village. There was also a shop where you could buy additional snacks and supplies.
It was a good opportunity to get organised, repack anything that needed sorting and make sure we were ready to go.
Our larger bags were handed over to be transported by the mules, and we set off.
The hike to the mountain refuge – 3,100m
We started by walking through the village, gradually making our way past waterfalls and onto some flatter ground before entering the national park.
The terrain quickly became much rockier.
There were lots of switchbacks, longer uphill sections and some fairly steep stretches as we made our way up the valley.
We were heading towards the mountain refuge, which sits at approximately 3,100 metres.
The walking was generally steady, with the guides stopping every 40 minutes or so to give everyone an opportunity to rest.
However, I quickly realised that the stop-start approach wasn't particularly suited to my hiking style.
I'm not a fast hiker. I'm much more of a slow, steady and consistent walker.
I find it easier to keep moving at my own pace rather than constantly stopping, starting, stopping and starting again.
Initially, I found it quite demanding trying to keep up with the rest of the group.
After speaking to one of the guides, I suggested that when the group stopped and I'd caught up, I would just carry on walking.
The trail was straightforward to follow, and the guides could catch up with me.
This worked brilliantly.
I was able to walk at a pace that suited me, concentrate on my breathing and find my rhythm.
It's something I've learnt over many years of hiking. You need to understand what works for your body and not feel pressured into walking at somebody else's pace.
Lunch on the mountain
We stopped for lunch along the route, and the food was really good.
We had rice, tuna, fish, bread and a selection of salads.
There was also an opportunity to buy additional drinks if needed, and we were served mint tea.
It was another lovely opportunity to sit down, have a rest and chat with the other people in the group.
There were also toilets available along the route.
These were squat toilets, and I think some people found them quite an experience!
I suppose it depends on what you're used to. If you've never used this type of toilet before, it might take a little getting used to.
One thing to remember when hiking in Morocco is that the mules have priority on the mountain trails.
Whenever they approached, we needed to move over to the right-hand side, against the mountain, to allow them to pass safely.
There were quite a few other groups making their way up the mountain, so it was important to be aware of your surroundings.
I was using my hiking poles, which I found really beneficial, particularly on the rocky sections.
It was a long, steady climb.
Arriving at the refuge
We arrived at the refuge just before 5pm.
The accommodation was certainly an experience!
We were shown to our room, which was relatively small considering there were 14 people in the group.
There were several sleeping arrangements, with four mattresses together on a raised wooden platform, another bunk-style arrangement with mattresses above and below, and a couple of people sleeping on mattresses on the floor.
It was crowded, and you were definitely going to get to know your neighbours!
For one night, though, it was manageable.
The tour company provided sleeping bags, but I had brought my own because I feel more comfortable sleeping in my own equipment.
The room was quite warm, and there were electrical sockets available.
However, there wasn't much space, so organisation was important. There was a fair amount of shuffling equipment around, finding somewhere to put your belongings and trying not to get in everybody else's way.
Everyone was considerate, though, and people communicated well when they needed to get changed or wanted a little privacy.
There were showers available, and some of the group decided to use them. I didn't bother, but those who did said the water was really hot, which was a pleasant surprise!
There were also proper seated toilets, which was great.
You needed to bring your own toilet paper, although the guides also provided some, along with water. Large five-litre bottles of water were available.
Dinner and preparing for summit day
Dinner was served at 6pm.
We all sat around a long table, with plenty of water, Moroccan mint tea and bread.
The main meal was chicken with rice and vegetables, followed by a little glass of fruit salad for dessert.
The food was delicious, and I had absolutely no complaints.
After dinner, we had a discussion with the guides about the following morning.
We had two options: start early enough to reach the summit for sunrise, or have a slightly later start.
As a group, we decided that we wanted to aim for a sunrise summit.
This meant an incredibly early start!
Breakfast would be served at 3am, with a planned departure at 3.30am.
We headed back to the room, organised our equipment day bags were packed, teeth were brushed, water bladders/bottles were filled, and the room was dark and quiet by around 8.20pm.
I'm not sure how well I slept, but I think I managed to get a few decent hours.
I wear my black Tough Girl buff as an eye mask, along with wax earplugs, which do a brilliant job of blocking out a lot of noise.
I actually felt reasonably rested when I woke up.
Day 2: Summit day – climbing Mount Toubkal
Summit day!
We had agreed the night before that we wanted to reach the summit for sunrise, which meant a 2.45am wake-up call.
Breakfast was being served at 3am.
Personally, I decided not to eat breakfast.
I simply can't eat at 3am. My digestive system would not appreciate it, particularly when I was about to start several hours of uphill hiking.
I was really pleased that everyone was organised and ready to go by 3,30am
What I wore for the summit
I wanted to make sure I was warm enough, particularly as we would be starting in complete darkness.
My clothing consisted of:
Black leggings underneath my walking trousers.
An Inov-8 mid-layer.
My black Inov-8 puffy jacket.
Neck buff.
Hat.
Head torch.
Two pairs of gloves: a thin pair underneath and a thicker pair on top.
I also carried a day pack, with hand warmers, snacks, and a waterproof layer.
There were around 200 people staying at the refuge, and most were heading up in organised groups.
Each group had approximately three guides, and there were plenty of head torches lighting up the mountain as everyone started making their way towards the summit.
Hiking in the dark and dealing with altitude
It was tough going.
There's no getting away from it.
You're walking uphill, in the dark, at altitude, having had a relatively short night's sleep.
There are lots of steps, steep sections and rocky terrain.
One thing I particularly noticed was how frequently I needed to go to the toilet!
I've since looked into this, and increased urine production at altitude is a recognised physiological response. It's known as altitude diuresis.
I seemed to be needing to pee approximately every 40 minutes, which was quite ridiculous considering I hadn't even drunk that much.
I'd probably had around half a litre of water.
Thankfully, it was relatively straightforward to manage.
There were lots of other groups walking up the mountain, so I would simply step away from the trail, turn off my head torch, make sure I was out of sight and do what I needed to do.
I always packed my tissues out with me, before getting back onto the trail.
It did become a little frustrating, particularly when I was trying to make progress up the mountain, but it was something I had to manage.
Interestingly, nobody else in the group seemed to be experiencing quite the same level of frequent urination!
Finding my own pace
Just as I had done the previous day, I decided to stick with the hiking strategy that worked best for me.
Slow, steady and consistent.
One of the guides, Mohammed, stayed with me for quite a lot of the climb.
He understood my hiking style and knew that I preferred to keep moving rather than constantly stopping.
I really appreciated this.
I wasn't particularly talkative during the climb, which you might find surprising!
Normally, I'm quite happy chatting away, but I was concentrating on my breathing, managing my effort and making sure I was getting enough oxygen.
I wanted to conserve my energy and just focus on getting to the top.
My legs were fine, my lungs were fine, and I wasn't experiencing a headache, nausea or dizziness.
It was simply hard work.
Lots of steps, lots of steep sections and lots of putting one foot in front of the other.
And then, gradually, the sky started to get lighter.
Reaching the summit of Mount Toubkal – 4,167m
I reached the summit at approximately 6.45–6.50am.
Standing at 4,167 metres, on the highest mountain in North Africa, was a pretty special feeling.
It was also incredibly busy.
There were probably around 100 people at the summit area when I arrived, and I found the crowds quite overwhelming.
I'm not particularly keen on busy environments, especially when I've just spent several hours climbing a mountain!
For me, the priority was quite simple.
Get to the summit, take a photo, film a video and then start heading back down.
I didn't bother asking anyone to take a photograph of me. It just felt like too much hassle with so many people around!
I managed to get a selfie and some video footage, which was great.
I also knew that reaching the summit was only one part of the day's adventure.
We still had to descend back to the refuge, have some food, collect our equipment and then walk all the way back down to the village.
It was going to be a very long day.
So, after a quick chat with Mohammed, I said I was going to start heading down.
He was happy for me to go ahead and said he would catch up.
Perfect!
The descent back to the refuge
We descended using a slightly different route from the one we'd taken up.
There were some steep sections, loose rocks, sandy patches and areas where you had to be particularly careful with your foot placement.
There were also other groups descending at the same time, as well as people still making their way up.
I let the faster walkers go ahead of me and continued at my own pace.
There were a few sections where you could almost ski down the loose ground, but it was important not to get carried away and lose your footing.
The descent was much easier in daylight, and it was lovely to finally see the mountain properly.
It was around 7.30–8am by this point.
Mohammed caught up with me and let me know that the other two women had gone ahead, while the rest of the group were behind.
I continued down towards the refuge.
Once we arrived, we had an opportunity to relax, sort through our equipment and repack.
Anything we didn't need to carry for the rest of the day could go into our larger bags, which the mules would transport.
This meant our daypacks only needed to contain the essentials:
Water.
Snacks.
Sunscreen.
Sunglasses.
Waterproof jacket.
Anything else we needed for the walk down.
For me, one of the biggest things is remembering why I'm there.
Lunch at the refuge
We had lunch at around 10.30am.
I wasn't particularly hungry, which wasn't surprising considering how early we'd started and how much walking we'd already done.
I had a few mouthfuls of an egg and vegetable dish and some pasta.
I also had some protein water and one of my protein oat bars, which I regularly take on hikes because I know they agree with my digestive system.
I topped up my water and got myself organised for the final descent.
We were also asked to contribute towards a tip for the chefs, with everyone handing over around 50 MAD.
Then it was time to get walking again.
The long walk back down
The final descent was another opportunity to do what works best for me.
Slow and steady.
I was definitely much better at maintaining a consistent pace than trying to keep up with the rest of the group.
It also meant I could stop whenever I needed to go to the toilet!
Yes, the frequent toilet stops continued.
I'm still not entirely sure where all that fluid was coming from, particularly as I wasn't drinking enormous amounts.
But it is what it is!
I continued making my way down, keeping an eye out for anyone coming up behind me and making sure I moved out of the way when the mules needed to pass.
We stopped at the same place where we'd had lunch on the first day.
It was a good opportunity to sit down, have some snacks, use the toilet if needed and take a little break.
The weather also started to change.
Rain began to fall, so the waterproof jackets came out.
It was also getting noticeably warmer as we lost altitude, so some of our additional layers came off.
We eventually took a slightly different route back towards the village, following a small road section before descending along some sandy, slightly sloping paths.
And then, finally, we were back!
We'd completed the climb, reached the summit of North Africa's highest mountain and made it all the way back down.
Everyone in the group successfully reached the summit, which was brilliant.
There was a real sense of achievement, and it was lovely seeing everybody succeed.
Tipping the guides
Once we'd finished the hike, we waited for our transport to collect us.
Tipping is customary, and we'd been given some guidance about what was appropriate.
I gave 300 MAD towards the guides and an additional 200 MAD to Mohammed, who had spent a considerable amount of time supporting me during the hike.
I also gave the driver a tip.
I really appreciated Mohammed's support.
He understood that I wasn't necessarily going to walk at the same pace as everyone else and was happy to let me find my own rhythm.
He was supportive without putting any pressure on me, which made a big difference.
I'd also done a little filming with him during the adventure, and I'll be including some of that in my YouTube video.
I'll share his details alongside the video for anyone interested in booking him.
Back to Marrakech: food, drinks and celebrating
Once we were back at the hotel, we made a plan to meet again at 6pm and head out for dinner.
A few of the girls fancied having cocktails, and there was talk of finding a rooftop bar.
Everyone seemed keen, so we headed out together.
We were lucky enough to find a lovely little restaurant that could accommodate all 14 of us.
I ordered a glass of rosé and a pizza, while other people enjoyed hot food and drinks.
We had a little toast to celebrate everybody's achievements and the adventure we'd shared.
It was a really lovely way to finish the experience.
One of the things I particularly enjoyed was how quickly we'd all got to know each other.
We'd started the trip as a group of strangers, but by the end we'd shared a challenging mountain adventure, early starts, communal accommodation, meals, lots of walking and plenty of conversations.
We were back at the hotel by around 8.30–8.45pm, and I was in bed by 9pm.
After such a long day, I was more than ready for some sleep!
Breakfast was provided the following morning, and then it was time to say goodbye to everyone and head off on our separate journeys.
My thoughts on climbing Mount Toubkal
Overall, I absolutely loved the experience.
It was challenging, rewarding and a really enjoyable way to spend a few days in Morocco.
There are a few things that particularly stand out for me.
1. Don't underestimate the difficulty
I would definitely say that you shouldn't underestimate this hike.
Although Mount Toubkal is often described as a relatively straightforward trekking peak, you're still climbing to over 4,000 metres.
You're walking for long periods, dealing with altitude, navigating steep and rocky terrain and getting up in the middle of the night to attempt the summit.
The final day is particularly long.
You need to be comfortable with the idea of hiking for potentially 8–10 hours, including a substantial descent.
I actually think I would have found the experience easier if I'd done it a couple of weeks earlier, when I was still closer to peak fitness following my GR5 adventure.
However, I'm still really pleased I went.
It was a good challenge, and one that pushed me outside my comfort zone without feeling impossible.
2. Know your own hiking style
One of the biggest things I took away from the experience was the importance of understanding what works for you.
I'm a slow, consistent hiker.
I don't particularly enjoy constantly stopping and starting, and I find that I perform much better when I can settle into a rhythm.
Being able to communicate this to the guides made a huge difference.
I wasn't trying to race anyone or prove anything.
I just wanted to enjoy the experience, manage my energy and make sure I reached the summit safely.
And that's exactly what I did.
3. The benefits of a guided group adventure
This was probably one of my favourite aspects of the trip.
I'm so used to organising everything myself.
I'm normally the person researching the route, booking accommodation, checking maps, sorting transport, planning food and making sure everything is in place.
With this adventure, I didn't have to do any of that.
Everything was organised.
I knew where I needed to be, what time I needed to be there and what was happening next.
It took away a considerable amount of mental load.
And actually, I really enjoyed that.
It allowed me to relax, meet new people and concentrate on the experience rather than worrying about all the logistics.
I'm definitely interested in doing more supported adventures in the future.
4. Altitude is something to respect
I've been to altitude before, including climbing Kilimanjaro, but it had been a while.
I was pleased that I didn't experience a headache, nausea or dizziness during the climb.
My legs were fine, and my breathing was manageable.
The main thing I noticed was the increased need to urinate, which was quite something!
I was also pleased when we got back down and started chatting to other people in the group.
It turned out that I wasn't the only one who had struggled with the cold. Several people had experienced very cold fingertips, and others had found the temperatures challenging.
It was reassuring to know it wasn't just me!
Altitude affects people differently, and it's important to listen to your body and take the appropriate precautions.
5. Enjoy the group experience
I think I was particularly lucky with the group of people I had.
There was a really nice mixture of personalities, ages, backgrounds and experiences.
Everyone was interested in the outdoors, adventure, fitness and pushing themselves.
It was lovely to meet people who were looking to challenge themselves and experience something different.
And it was brilliant that everyone in our group successfully reached the summit.
There was a real sense of encouragement and wanting to see everyone succeed.
Would I recommend climbing Mount Toubkal?
Absolutely!
If you're reasonably fit, enjoy hiking and want to experience climbing a mountain over 4,000 metres, I think Mount Toubkal is a fantastic adventure.
However, don't underestimate it.
You need to be prepared for long days, steep terrain, altitude, basic mountain accommodation and an incredibly early summit start.
It's also worth thinking about how you cope with altitude and whether you have previous experience of hiking at higher elevations.
For me, it was a fantastic opportunity to get back into the mountains, challenge myself and experience something different.
I'm particularly pleased to have climbed above 4,000 metres this year.
It's been a long time since Kilimanjaro, and it was great to have another opportunity to experience a high-altitude mountain environment.
The views from the summit were spectacular, although I think I was so focused on actually getting to the top that I didn't fully appreciate them at the time.
It will be lovely to look back at the video footage once I've edited everything together.
Final thoughts
Sometimes it's good to do things differently.
I'm so used to planning and organising my own adventures that I'd almost forgotten what it was like to simply turn up, follow the instructions and enjoy the experience.
Having somebody else take care of the logistics was a real treat.
I could focus on the walking, the people, the scenery and the challenge itself.
It was a reminder that not every adventure needs to be a huge undertaking or a solo expedition.
Sometimes it's just about booking something, turning up, meeting new people and seeing what happens.
Would I do more guided group adventures? Definitely.
Would I climb Mount Toubkal again? Probably not in a hurry!
But I'm really glad I did it.
Over 4,000 metres, a sunrise summit, a brilliant group of people and another adventure completed. What's not to love?
Practical information: Climbing Mount Toubkal
Question | My experience |
How much did it cost? | £427 with Much Better Adventures |
How high is Mount Toubkal? | 4,167m |
How long is the hike? | Two days of mountain hiking |
Where did we sleep? | Mountain refuge at approximately 3,100m |
What time did we start summit day? | 3.32am |
What time did I reach the summit? | Approximately 6.45–6.50am |
Did I experience altitude sickness? | No headaches, nausea or dizziness |
Were mules used? | Yes, to carry the main luggage |
Would I recommend it? | Yes, provided you're prepared for the physical demands |
A few things I'd recommend taking:
Head torch with spare batteries.
Hiking poles.
Warm gloves (consider two pairs).
Hat and neck buff.
Warm layers and a waterproof jacket.
Sleeping bag liner and personal pillow if preferred.
Earplugs and eye mask.
Toilet paper and tissues (pack used tissues out).
Snacks that you know agree with your stomach.
Sunscreen and sunglasses.
Climbing Mount Toubkal was a fantastic adventure and a brilliant opportunity to do something a little different. From meeting 13 new people and sharing the experience of climbing in the Atlas Mountains, to getting up in the early hours to reach a sunrise summit at 4,167m, it was challenging, rewarding and full of memorable moments. I was reminded of the importance of knowing your own pace, listening to your body and being willing to step outside your comfort zone. I also discovered just how enjoyable it can be to let someone else take care of all the planning and logistics! At £427, I thought it was excellent value for money, and I'm definitely keen to book more supported group adventures in the future. Another mountain climbed, another challenge completed and another reminder that there's always something new to try!
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