Discover the continuation of my Camino Primitivo journey as I trek from Grandas de Salime to the sacred destination of Santiago de Compostela - Cathedral, sharing more incredible landscapes and spiritual insights. ๐ณ๐๏ธโช
Havenโt read the first part yet? Start from the beginning here: Day 0-6: Camino Primitivo
๐ฅพ The Camino Primitivo ๐ช๐ธ โน๏ธ Stats - Day 7
Date: Tuesday 19th September
Weather: in the fog and clouds until 11.30 am - then glorious sunshine and super hot for the rest of the day!
From: Grandas de Salime
Start time: 8.30am
To: A Fonsagrada
End time: 1.40pm
Accommodation: municipal albergue - bottom bunk. Nice spacious room. Plus no one above me.
Terrain: Mountain Viewโs, forests, roads and gravel tracks.
๐ฅพMiles: 18 miles
๐ฆถSteps: 35,141
Total miles: 92/199 46% done โ
๐ฐCosts: albergue โฌ10
Food โฌ9.89 - gf cookies,crisps, sweets, 2x chocolate, 2x tangerine ๐, grapes.
Subjective feeling out of 10 on:
Enjoyment: 10/10 love days like today!
Fatigue: 2/10 - felt so strong! Although almost hit the wall just before reaching the town as I hadnโt eaten all day and done 17 miles.
Ease of terrain: 4/10 - it was great - loving the mountains & the descents. Really great walking/running.
Highlights - the whole day was a highlight. Stunning views, beautiful downhill running (ran about 4 miles - 40mins) felt super strong. Arrived at 1.30pm ish - got checked in and sorted out by 2pm - then spend the afternoon sunbathing and chatting with other pilgrims. Power Nap ๐ค at 7pm.
Challenges - a bit of a struggle to find the municipal albergue- not signposted how they usually are. Plus I thought it was expensive โฌ10. There was no kitchen - which makes eating good food harder. As I ended up buying more snacky food to eat.
๐ฅพ The Camino Primitivo ๐ช๐ธ โน๏ธ Stats - Day 8
Date: Wednesday 20th September
Walked with Carl (Austrian ๐ฆ๐น)
Weather: foggy, misty, cold ish wind.
From: A Fonsagrada
Start time: 8.03am
To: Cadavo
End time: 1.11pm
Accommodation: municipal albergue
Terrain: a few mountains climbs, road walking, gravel paths, forests.
๐ฅพMiles: 18.2 miles
๐ฆถSteps: 35,653
Total miles: 107/199 = 54% done โ
๐ฐCosts: albergue โฌ10
Cooked my remaining GF pasta and had it with olive oil and mixed seeds & nuts. Got 2 sachets of honey and some gf biscuits left. Time for a shop tomorrow.
Subjective feeling out of 10 on:
Enjoyment: 9/10 another awesome day!
Fatigue: 2/10 - felt great during the walk -
Pretty wiped by 4pm - ready for an afternoon nap ๐ค
Ease of terrain: 4/10 - loving the mountain routes. Good climbing and some great descents.
Highlights - the morning mountain walk - running the downhill sections. (About 3 miles). Getting to the albergue at 1.11pm, afternoon nap ๐ค and chilling for the rest of the afternoon. Ready for an early night and some big miles tomorrow.
Challenges - none really!
Watch the vlog HERE
๐ฅพ The Camino Primitivo ๐ช๐ธ โน๏ธ Stats - Day 9
Date: Thursday 21st September
Weather: cold, cloudy, a bit of drizzle. Not a great weather day.
From: Cadavo
Start time: 8am - didnโt have the best night sleep and was awake at 7am so decided to get up and get moving.
To: Lugo
End time: 2pm.
Accommodation: municipal albergue - top bunk
Terrain: gravel tracks, forest, road walking.
๐ฅพMiles: 18 miles + 3 miles walking around the city.
๐ฆถSteps: 43,348
Total miles: 126/199 = 63% done โ
๐ฐCosts: today was not a good day for money. I spent so much. Donโt go food shopping or make decisions when you are tied and hungry. I made bad decisions.
Albergue โฌ10
Icecream & crisps โฌ3.80
Wine โฌ1.50
Food resupply โฌ27 - crisps, 3x tangerine, gf chocolate biscuits, gf mini cupcakes, 2x chewy sweets, peanut M&Ms, chocolate bar, rice cakes, tuna (in a glass jar), green juice, 3x mini toblerone.
Hot chocolate โฌ1.80
Total ๐ฐ โฌ44.10
Subjective feeling out of 10 on:
Enjoyment: 6/10 - pleased to reach Lugo earlier. But annoyed no kitchen and no wifi.
Fatigue: 4/10 - felt a lot more tired today. More of a slog to get to Lugo.
Ease of terrain: 4/10
Highlights - made a plan to walk to Finisterra and have booked accommodation in Santiago for the 26th. Also checked out the bus timetable from Finisterra to Santiago. Iโll just have to see if I can make it happen. As it would mean some pretty big walking days over the next 5 days.
Challenges - the municipal albergues in this county donโt have kitchen facilities and to use the wifi you need a working phone. Eg. I canโt sign up for the wifi as Iโm not using my phone internationally. I have it on aeroplane โ๏ธ mode all the time. Plus they now cost โฌ10 compared to the โฌ6/7 I was paying previously. Some private albergues are only โฌ14 and they have wifi and kitchens. So Iโm starting to think itโs better for me to pay slightly more to get better facilities. Still trying hard to stick to a budget of โฌ20 per day.
๐ฅพ The Camino Primitivo ๐ช๐ธ โน๏ธ Stats - Day 10
Date: Friday 22nd September
Weather: coldish - grey skies a little bit of drizzle and 2 rainbows ๐ ๐
From: Lugo
Start time: 7.45 am
To: As Seixas
End time: 2.50pm
Accommodation: municipal albergue - top bunk (my choice - as the room was so dark - I wanted more light)
Terrain: lots of road walking today with a few gravel paths and forest paths.
๐ฅพMiles: 20 miles
๐ฆถSteps: 43,062
Total miles: 145/199 = 73% done โ
๐ฐCosts: albergue โฌ10
โฌ12.50 - starter (tuna salad) , main (chicken & chips), desert (cake) & 3 glasses of vino blanco !!! ๐คช๐คช๐คช
Total โฌ22.50
Subjective feeling out of 10 on:
Enjoyment: 9/10 - solid day. Really pleased to have walked 20 miles. Which was my
minimum if I want to go to Fisterra.
Fatigue: 3/10 - took a while to get warmed up and needed to stop for food at 10am ish. But was flying in the afternoon.
Ease of terrain: 2/10 - relatively flat. Nothing that challenging.
Highlights - great dinner at the albergue next door to the municipal- great price and just what I needed. FaceTimed mum & dad. Always good to chat!
Challenges - trying to work out if I want to walk to Fisterra or not? I need to do some big miles over the next few days if I decided to commit.
Watch the vlog HERE
๐ฅพ The Camino Primitivo ๐ช๐ธ โน๏ธ Stats - Day 11
Date: Saturday 23rd September
Weather: cold in the morning. Hot in the afternoon and changed back into shorts.
From: As Seixas
Start time: 8.30am
To: Santa Irene
End time: 5.30pm
Accommodation: municipal albergue - bottom bunk.
Terrain: felt like majority of today was road walking.
๐ฅพMiles: 28.7
๐ฆถSteps: 58,325
Total miles: 172.5/199 = 87% done โ
๐ฐCosts: โฌ1.50 gluten & diary free cake ๐ฐ
โฌ2.50 Coke Zero - basically paid to use the bathroom!
โฌ10 albergue
Total ๐ฐโฌ14
Subjective feeling out of 10 on:
Enjoyment: 8/10 it was so nice to walk through some familiar places.
Fatigue: 5/10 - started to get tired around 5pm - I was waiting for the 2nd wind to kick in - it didnโt!!
Ease of terrain: 3/10 - relatively flat and easy walking.
Highlights - at least by doing the bigger day today - should make the next few days easier!
Challenges - going over on my left ankle before Iโd even started walking for the day.
Doing a much bigger day in terms of distance and time on feet than I wanted. Starting to notice a lot more pilgrims on the trail.
๐ฅพ The Camino Primitivo ๐ช๐ธ โน๏ธ Stats - Day 12 - Final Day!
Date: Sunday 24th September
Weather: hot and sunny โ๏ธ
From: Santa Irene
Start time: 8.10am
To: Santiago de Compostela - Cathedral
End time: 12.30pm
Accommodation: none - carried on walking
Terrain: road walking, a few first paths and gravel tracks.
๐ฅพMiles: 15 miles
๐ฆถSteps: 31,346
Total miles: 199/199 = 100% done โ
๐ฐCosts: โฌ5 2x pilgrimโs certificates and cardboard tube to carry them home in.
Subjective feeling out of 10 on:
Enjoyment: 8/10 - I still enjoyed it - but it was very overwhelming - so many people.
Fatigue: 5/10. I felt tired today. It was hard doing the miles. Left ankle is feeling weak.
Ease of terrain: 3/10 pretty flat walking. Lots of road to content with.
Highlights - always nice to complete a goal you set out to achieve. I got a stunning photo of me & the Cathedral- especially when done in black and white ๐ฅณ
Challenges - the night was awful - the albergue was full of mosquitoes ๐ฆ and I kept getting bit. I needed to take an anti histamine. Couldnโt wait until morning.
The final few miles - wow!! So busy!! So many pilgrims- just people everywhere!
Watch the full vlog HERE
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